A clever combination of two classics: liver and onion, and goat curry
Inspired by my article on the joys of liver, this is a surprisingly sweet and delicate treat, which celebrates kid goat liver from Gourmet Goat (though I’m sure it would work with lamb, calf or veal liver too).
Liver and onion is a well-rehearsed match; ditto goat and curry. This combines the two to great effect, and is particularly successful when Spice Mountain’s freshly ground curry powders are used.
The caramelised and curried onions are ace alongside lightly spiced, seared goat liver—which has just a hint of that ferrous flavour we associate with this offal cut. Sharply dressed peppery leaves and cooling Greek yoghurt are an essential part of the dish as they cut through the spice, metallic and sweet flavours whilst ensuring all is bound together—so don’t skip them!
For the onions:
1kg brown onions
2 heaped tsp golden caster sugar
10 sprigs of thyme, leaves stripped
1 tbsp garam masala
For the goat liver:
450-500g kid goat liver
3 tsp curry powder
1 tbsp cold pressed rapeseed oil
2 tbsp light rapeseed oil
200g mixed leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp cold pressed rapeseed oil
Peel, halve and slice the onions into thin crescents. Place a heavy bottomed saucepan on a low-medium heat. Add the butter and allow to melt for a moment, then tip the onions in, along with a couple of pinches of salt.
Mix and start to sweat the onions, then add the sugar and thyme leaves. Mix again and cook over a low heat for 10-15 mins. Over that time the onions will release a reasonable amount of moisture. Once the pan is nearly dry, place a lid on top and soften and sweeten the onions for 5 mins more. Then add the garam masala, mix well, replace the lid and cook for a final 5 mins.
Mix the curry powder, a few grinds of black pepper and the two rapeseed oils. This should be a wet paste—add a little extra light rapeseed oil if you need it.
Use a very sharp knife to trim any fat and sinew from the goat liver. Then slice the liver on an angle into 2.5-3cm thick pieces, before dropping these into the curry paste and ensuring every edge is coated.
When the onions are ready, place a heavy bottomed frying pan or cast iron griddle over your hottest hob and allow to heat up for at least 1 min. Use tongs to place the pieces of liver on the hot pan, which should sizzle and sear immediately upon contact. Cook for 90 secs, before turning the liver over and cooking for 90 secs more. Add the butter to the pan, and turn the liver in the foaming, nutty, curried liquid to ensure all sides are covered before leaving to rest for 2 mins.
Serve the livers sliced to show their blushing pink middle, with a large spoon of sweet curried onions, mixed leaves dressed in lemon juice, oil and salt, and a spoon of cold, thick Greek yoghurt.
Recipe & image: Ed Smith